藏家Mervin Ling的年度最愛｜HOROGUIDES雜誌Vol.9特別企劃
從年度代表字到各式排行榜，歲末年終是屬於回顧與盤點的季節。在科技時代裡，我們慣於用數據解讀趨勢、用理性分析變化，但手腕上的腕錶收藏始終例外，喜愛的選擇從不靠演算法決定，而是源自心動、記憶與生活的里程意義。
HOROGUIDES雜誌Vol.9年度回顧特別企劃【Time, Rebalanced! 瑞士鐘錶年度回顧】，邀請17位藏家分享他們心中的年度之選。今年的瑞士鐘錶業在關稅壓力與市場震盪的縫隙中，重新尋找比例、節奏與人的溫度，選擇放慢腳步的同時，更是一場關於品牌、藏家與工匠，如何重新定義節奏的年度回顧。
Mervin Ling
鐘錶愛好者、專欄作家、以及@fpjourne.collectors.club的創辦人。
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My favourite watch for the year is the Cartier Baignoire Allongée. The name "Baignoire," the French word for "bathtub," perfectly highlights the watch's distinctive shape. Many believe its design draws inspiration from the elegant, oval VIP seats in opera houses, adding to its refined and artistic charm. The Cartier Baignoire Allongée is regarded as an "object of beauty", combining elegance with a unique silhouette.
我今年最喜歡的一只錶是CARTIER Baignoire Allongée。「Baignoire」這個名字在法文中意為「浴缸」， 完美呼應腕錶與眾不同的橢圓造型。許多人認為其設計靈感來自歌劇院裡優雅的橢圓貴賓席，為腕錶增添一種高雅氣質與藝術魅力。CARTIER Baignoire Allongée 腕錶被譽為「美之載體」，集優雅風範與獨特輪廓於一身。
CARTIER Baignoire Allongée Ref. 2515 玫瑰金 / 錶徑 21.5x47mm / 手上鍊機芯
On the other hand, some might view the Baignoire Allongée as more feminine, its elongated oval shape transcends traditional gender categories, complementing anyone with a sophisticated and refined look. In order to ensure comfort, The thickness of the watch is only 8mm and it is curved, which is convenient to hide under the cuff. I also love how I can share this piece between me and my wife.
另一方面，或許有人認為Baignoire Allongée較具女性氣質，但其修長的橢圓殼型實則跨越了傳統性別分界，能為任何佩戴者增添精緻優雅的風采。為確保佩戴舒適度，錶殼厚度僅為8mm，並採用弧形設計，便於隱匿於袖口之下。我亦十分喜愛能與妻子共同分享佩戴這只錶的樂趣。
While for the Crash, some have claimed that the inspiration for the watch’s design came from a story where Baignoire Allongée, half-melted in a car crash, giving rise to the "crash before crash" style. This accidental deformity introduced an avant- garde, irregular oval shape long before the iconic Crash model was created. This adds a rebellious yet sophisticated edge to the watch’s heritage and narrative.
至於Crash腕錶，曾有說法指其設計靈感源自一場車禍中遭半熔的Baignoire Allongée，因而造就了「Crash之前的Crash」的風格。這種意外造就的變形體，早在經典Crash錶款問世前，便開創出前衛的不規則橢圓形態，為這款錶的歷史與故事注入一絲不羈卻不失內涵的鋒芒。
This Ref. 2515, produced for only a short period while the rose gold version is rarer than the yellow gold. Another subtle detail of this piece is the "Made in France" at the six o'clock position which no longer produced. Ultimately, the Baignoire Allongée stands out as a timeless piece, blending classic beauty, history, and edgy backstory.
這只Ref. 2515僅在極短時期投入生產，其中玫瑰金款式較黃金款更為罕見。這只錶的另一個細節是設於6點位置的「Made in France」字樣，這一標記如今已不復見。總而言之，Baignoire Allongée是一件不朽之作，完美融合經典美學、歷史底蘊與突破常規的軼事傳承。
精彩完整內容，敬請閱覽HOROGUIDES Vol.9
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