衝動，還是理性？藏家Shea最愛的新收藏｜HOROGUIDES雜誌Vol.10 特別企劃
在這個不再單向上行的市場週期中，藏家的決策邏輯也隨之轉變。過去以情緒為主導的購買動機，正逐步讓位給更複雜的心理與價值判斷。當代藏家變得更為審慎且自覺， 開始將視角由外部市場轉向內在經驗，重新思考一枚腕錶與自身閱歷、審美品味與生活節奏之間的關係。
也正是在這樣的背景下，本期特別企劃【您最愛的新收藏，是衝動購買，還是理性決定?】(What's Your Favorite Recent NWA―and Was It an Impulse or a Considered Choice?) 應運而生。我們邀請多位眼光獨到的腕錶藏家，分享他們在市場修正之後的最新入手。這一次，我們刻意不羅列制式的收藏清單，而是透過每一段入手過程背後的心路歷程，重新梳理當代藏家與物件之間的情感連結。
我是一位企業家與腕錶藏家，最吸引我的時計作品，通常都擁有展示動態藝術美感的機械結構、非傳統的顯示方式，還有一眼便能訴說故事的獨特設計語彙。
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Of my recent acquisitions, my favorite is the De Bethune DB28GS Swordfish. This purchase was not an impulse buy at all, even if the timing felt unexpectedly perfect. Before this watch was announced, I had already spent time thinking through De Bethune’s catalog and realized that their DB28GS diver watches, with the dynamo and LED light complication, fascinated me the most. The same model in other colorways, such as the Grand Bleu, Yellow Submarine, and JPS, had all stayed in my mind. I told myself that if De Bethune ever released that concept in a colorway I truly loved, I would go for it.
在我最近入手的幾只錶裡，我最喜歡的是De Bethune DB28GS Swordfish。這並非一次衝動購買，即使那個入手的時機，完美得令人出乎意料。在這只錶正式發表之前，我其實已經花了一段時間梳理De Bethune的產品脈絡，也很清楚自己最著迷的，正是DB28GS這個潛水系列，特別是其結合發電裝置與LED照明的複雜設計。像是Grand Bleu、Yellow Submarine、JPS等不同配色版本，都曾在我心中留下深刻印象。我當時就告訴自己，如果哪天De Bethune在此概念上推出真正打動我的配色，我就會出手。
DE BETHUNE DB28GS Swordfish 鋯金屬／錶徑44mm／DB2080機芯
Then, the very next week, during Watches and Wonders 2025, they announced the Swordfish: stealth black, with accents of blued titanium, and entirely within my wheelhouse.
From there, it became a mission. I chased every lead I had, and with help from my good friend Jordan, who connected me directly with the brand, I was eventually able to secure an allocation for 2026.
沒想到，幾乎就在下一週的Watches & Wonders 2025上，品牌就發表了Swordfish：低調的全黑基調，搭配藍色鈦金屬，完全正中我的喜好。
從那一刻起，這只錶就變成了一個目標。我動用了所有能接觸到的資源去尋找機會，在朋友Jordan的協助下，成功與品牌取得直接聯繫，並最終拿到2026年的配額。
What I love most is that it captures both sides of why I collect: serious watchmaking and genuine fun. The technical ingenuity is there, but so is the sense of play. Since acquiring it, I’ve noticed small things about it that would ordinarily bother me, but this watch is just so much fun that none of them really matter. That level of fun is why this NWA is my favorite so far.
對我而言，這只錶最迷人的地方，在於它同時呈現了我收藏的兩個核心面向：一是嚴肅的製錶實力，二是真正的趣味性。它在技術上毫不妥協，但同時又帶有一種帶點玩心的特質。入手之後，我也注意到一些如果放在其他腕錶上可能會讓我介意的小細節，但因為這款錶實在太有趣了，那些細節反而都變得無足輕重。那種純粹的樂趣，正是它成為我目前最喜愛新入手腕錶的原因。
精彩完整內容，敬請閱覽HOROGUIDES Vol.10
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