IG影響力人物：George Wang的年度最愛
歲末年終，免不了回顧盤點、省思總結；諸如年度排行、年度代表字等，更是蔚為話題。科技時代我們運用數據，理性分析特定主題的增減趨勢；但手腕上的收藏，永遠出自本心，值得感性對待。本期特別企劃【My Watch of the Year! 影響力人物的年度最愛 】(Top Influencers, what is your favorite watch of the year? ) 邀請藏家們介紹今年的最愛收藏，分享他們在腕錶以及人生的旅程，如何以時計銘刻時光。
George Wang
我出生於中國上海，現居澳洲雪梨，熱愛運動與旅行， 也非常喜歡鐘錶和藝術，常收藏手錶與畫作。
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As a master craftsman and member of AHCI, Raúl Pagès won the first-ever Louis Vuitton Watch Prize for his RP1 – Régulateur à détente which has been entirely designed, developed and handcrafted in house in his one-man workshop. This first edition of the LV Watch Prize attracted almost 1,000 entries, so Raúl’s win was certainly hard-fought.
Raúl Pagès是一位卓越工藝大師兼AHCI獨立製錶師協會成員，在首屆Louis Vuitton Watch Prize中， 他憑著其自主設計、開發並手工製作的Régulateur à détente RP1腕錶榮獲桂冠。首屆LV Watch Prize吸引了近千只作品參加，因此Raúl的勝利實屬不易。
Raúl Pagès Régulateur à détente RP1 不鏽鋼 / 錶徑 38.5mm / 衝擊式擒縱機芯
The RP1 features a manual-wind movement equipped with an old-school style of escapement by hand – the pivoted detent with anti-tripping device which is in line with the traditional precision chronometry.
Raúl has addressed and solved the major problem of shock resistance faced by the detent escapement which has largely been abandoned by modern watchmakers.
The biggest challenge is to miniaturise the size of the escapement, from the larger pocket watches to an appropriate size for a wristwatch. Another major accomplishment in terms of horological craftsmanship is every component, visible or not, is bevelled, polished, satin-finished or circular-grained by hand.
RP1的手動上鍊機芯由手工製作，裝配了古老的擒縱裝置——帶有防震系統的衝擊式擒縱，這種設計源自傳統的精密天文鐘。
這項技術在現代製錶界已被大多數人所摒棄，但Raúl成功解決了衝擊式擒縱裝置在抗震性方面的主要問題，其中的最大挑戰是要將這種原為懷錶而設計的擒縱裝置微型化，並成功融入到腕錶中。另一個重大成就是每個零件無論是否可見，都經過了手工倒角、拋光、拉絲或圓形紋處理，突顯出製錶工藝。
On the dial side, the aesthetics offer a more modern regulator display. RP1 is the most beautiful regulator wristwatch I have ever seen. Same like Raúl, I am also very passionate about art, music and architect. The dial features a unique architectural and chromatic composition which really match my personal preference and taste. The size of this three-piece stainless-steel case with a reasonable proportion of 38.5mm which is also my personal favourite.
在錶盤一側，展現了更有現代感的規範式顯示設計。RP1是我見過的最漂亮的規範式腕錶了，跟Raúl一樣， 我也對藝術、音樂和建築充滿熱情。這個錶盤具有獨特 的結構和色彩組合，正好合乎我個人的喜好和品味。三件式結構的不鏽鋼錶殼是恰到好處的38.5mm，比例適中，也是我最喜歡的尺寸。
To me, the difficulty of making this detent escapement on a wristwatch is a rare feat and the flawless hand finishing of the timepiece is sensational. RP1 pays tribute to the emblematic precision regulators that Raúl reinterprets in a contemporary aesthetic. Like most great art pieces, RP1 not only catches my eyes with its tradition, elegance, purity, precision and beauty etc, but also gives me some spiritual resonance.
對我來說，在腕錶上製作如此困難的衝擊式天文鐘擒縱是一項罕見的壯舉，而這款腕錶的完美手工修飾更是令人驚嘆。RP1是Raúl以當代美學重新向標誌性精密規範式設計的一次致敬。就像大多數偉大的藝術作品一樣，RP1不僅以其傳統、優雅、純粹、精準、美麗等特色吸引了我的目光，也帶給我精神層面的共鳴。
精彩完整內容，敬請閱覽HOROGUIDES Vol.6
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