微距藏家的理想成真｜ARMIN STROM x Horomariobro 限量版

品牌的聯名作品時常以友牌或國際級藝術家、建築師為合作對象，但像這款Pure Resonance特別版由藏家提案設計則非常少數。在社交平台上以腕錶微距攝影吸引全球錶迷追蹤的藏家 Horomariobro，與獨立製錶ARMIN STROM啟動了一項僅限量10只的合作專案，我們特別訪問這位熱愛鐘錶工藝的細節魔人，由他親自介紹這款洋溢「horomario style」的時計。

IG帳號：@horomariobro

透過iPhone以及放大鏡下的鏡頭，分享對於藏錶的觀察與看法。

．腕錶微距攝影藏家
．GPHG Academy成員

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Q1: 當初你是如何接觸到Armin Strom這個品牌？是什麼啟發了你去發起這個特別版專案，前後共花費了多長時間？對你來說，Armin Strom與其他獨立製錶品牌有什麼不同之處?

How did you first come across the Armin Strom brand? What inspired you to initiate this special edition project, and how long did it take from conception to final production? In your opinion, what sets Armin Strom apart from other independent watch brands?

我一直都知道Armin Strom這個品牌，不過直到2017年，當我在尋找一只共振腕錶、Mirror Forced Resonance引起了我的注意時，我才真正開始對這個品牌感興趣。

I always knew about Armin Strom as a brand. It wasn’t until 2017 that I really got interested in the brand when I was looking for a resonance watch and the Mirror Forced Resonance caught my attention.

Gravity Equal Force Ultimate Sapphire Edition發佈時， 我非常喜歡它的藍寶石與單色設計，這令我有了一個想法，先是想去做一只跟Pure Resonance相似的、獨一無二的腕錶， 接著這變成了一項與Jeremy Oster和Claude Greisler（編按: OSTER Jewelers創辦人、以及Armin Strom共同創辦人暨首席製錶師）合作的特別版項目，從構思到最終製作共花了一年多一點的時間，跟他們一起工作也是一次很棒的經歷。在我看來，Armin Strom的與眾不同之處在於結合了對技術工程、傳統修飾與製錶價值的高度重視。這種結合在品牌之間是相當少見的，因為通常在一個品牌裡只會找到最多一至兩項這樣的特點。

When the Gravity Equal Force Ultimate Sapphire edition was released, I really like the sapphire and the monochrome design. That gave me the idea of doing something similar for the pure resonance as a piece unique first and then it turned into a special edition project from the collaboration with Jeremy Oster and Claude Greisler. It took a little over one year from conception to final production. It’s been a great experience working with them.

In my opinion, what sets Armin Strom apart is the combination of the great focus in technical engineering, traditional finishing and value in watchmaking. It’s quite a rare combination among the brands as one would normally just find one or two at most in a brand.

Q2: 你為何選擇Pure Resonance來展開這次合作？這款錶在哪一方面最吸引你？

Why did you choose the Pure Resonance model for this collaboration? What aspects of the watch appealed to you the most?

我尋找共振腕錶已經有一段時間，而Armin Strom是提供這類型腕錶的唯四個品牌裡的其中之一。根據我在 Youtube 裡所看到的以及跟 Claude 會面時所了解到的，Armin Strom共振技術原理的技術解釋對我來說是可以理解的，個人來說，這是在四個品牌裡我唯一一個可以從品牌本身獲得最多有關其共振 技術資訊的品牌，這就是為什麼我選擇了它，我還選擇了Pure Resonance，主要是因為它在Armin Strom的兩款共振腕錶型號之中尺寸較小。

I have been looking for a resonance watch for some time. Armin Strom is one of the only 4 brands that offers this type of watch. The technical explanations of Armin Strom’s resonance technology make sense to me based on the Youtube videos I watched and also a meeting I had with Claude. Personally, it’s the only brand, out of the 4, where I could get the most information about its resonance technology from the brand itself and that’s why I went for it. I also chose Pure Resonance mainly because it has a smaller size of the two resonance models from Armin Strom.

品牌為藏家客製腕錶時有所聞，但是像這款Pure Resonance近似於聯名的限量設計則並不多見，可見雙方的深厚認同與信賴。(photo credit: Horomariobro)

Q3: 我們注意到錶款取消了錶殼凸緣（Lip）及小秒針的設計， 這讓錶款看起來更加平衡對稱。同時你也增加了不少傳統製錶裝飾工藝，讓錶款顯得更有「horomario style」。當你第一次接觸到這款錶的時候，第一時間想要著手進行修改的是腕錶的哪個部份?

We noticed that the watch features a design without the lip and small seconds, which gives it a more balanced and symmetrical appearance. Additionally, you have added many traditional watchmaking decorative techniques to give it the "horomario style." What part of the watch design did you first want to modify when you first encountered it?

凸緣和小秒針是我最先想要修改的部分，因為這樣不僅外觀更加對稱，也能夠突顯兩個共振的擺輪。起初，我提出這個要求時並沒有抱太大的期望，因為刪除這兩項設計是一個重大的改變，然而Armin Strom同意了我的請求，這讓我感到非常驚喜。

The lip and the small seconds are the first things I wanted to remove. The goal was not only for better symmetry on the dial but also to highlight the two resonating balance wheels. At first, I made the request without much expectation because it’s a significant change to remove those two design features. However, I was very pleasantly surprised that Armin Strom agreed to my request.

Q4: 這款錶加上了更多修飾技藝，包括機刻雕花（Guilloché）、 抖雕（Tremblage）、 黑色拋光橋板（Black polished bridge）、手工磨砂（Hand frosted）等等，為什麼你選擇採用這些技法？你怎樣安排它們？

This watch incorporates many finishing techniques, including Guilloché, Tremblage, Black polished bridge, Hand frosted…etc. Why did you choose these finishing techniques ? How you arrange them? and which finishing technique are you most satisfied with?

由講究工藝的細節魔人所提案 ，特別能感受到 Horomariobro 對機芯打磨修飾的喜愛與堅持。(photo credit: Horomariobro)

一開始，我並沒有在錶上應用的各種修飾技術方面想太多，直到Claude跟我說，我可以自由想選多少就多少，因為那些部件都會經過手工修飾處理，部分修飾的技術繼承自GEF US，例如機刻雕花；我個人則在一個特定位置選擇了鏡面的黑色拋光橋板用來拍攝指針的背面，我另外還選用了在我的腕錶裡所沒有的抖雕修飾。

In the beginning, I was not thinking too much about having various finishing techniques applied on the watch until Claude told me that I am free to choose as many as I’d like because those components will all receive hand finishing treatment. Some of the finishing techniques inherit from the GEF US such as the guilloche, for example. I personally chose the black-polished bridge at the exact location is for the underhand shot. I also chose the Tremblage finish because none of my watches had it.

這款合作作品中，卓越的手工修飾在各個細節中完美展現。 (photo credit: Horomariobro)

Q5: 當你拿到這款錶，你最想要透過你的iPhone微距鏡頭拍攝哪些細節並與腕錶社群的朋友分享什麼內容？

When you received this watch, what details did you most want to capture with your iPhone macro lens, and what content did you want to share with your watch community friends?

有很多細節我都想在這只錶上捕捉，例如擺輪的同步跳動、指針、藍寶石錶盤、各種修飾工藝、機芯、棘輪爪⋯⋯不勝枚舉。我最想捕捉的是兩個擺輪在共振前後跳動的畫面，我還不確定實際上要怎麼做，但我希望能找到一種方式來捕捉這款錶的亮點所在。

There are many details I’d like to capture from this watch such as the synchronized beating of the balance wheels, the hands, the sapphire dial, the various finishing techniques, the movement, the ratchet wheel click....the list just goes on and on. The one I’d like to capture the most is the video of the beating of the two balance wheels before and after the resonance is achieved. I am not sure exactly how I can do it yet, but I hope I can find a way to capture it as that’s the highlight of this watch.

機芯採用鏤空式上鍊機構和改進的棘輪系統，機芯上也可以看到Kari Voutilainen操刀的機刻小麥穗紋。(photo credit: Horomariobro)

還有一些不常見的細節，例如：

· 機芯的機刻雕花橋板
· Armin Strom的Logo雕刻在一個組件上

最初的設計是採用一個完整的藍寶石錶盤，由於一些技術原因讓藍寶石錶盤上的指針位置會有點太高。最後我們決定將藍寶石錶盤的中央挖空，但這也意味著沒有可以印上Logo的地方，Armin Strom於是有了製作一個 組件並在上面雕刻Logo的想法，我真的很喜歡這個想法，雖然細緻的 Logo看起來並不明顯，但只要你去尋找它，它就在那裡。

There are also some details that are not often seen such as,

· The guilloche bridges on the movement side.
· The Armin Strom logo is actually engraved on a component.

The original design was to have a full sapphire dial. However, due to technical reasons, the hands would be a bit too tall with the sapphire dial. The decision was to hallow out the middle of the sapphire dial but that would mean there is no area to print the logo. Armin Strom had the idea to make a component and engrave the logo on it. I really like the idea as the logo is subtle yet it’s there if you look for it.

精彩完整內容，敬請閱覽HOROGUIDES Vol.3

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