IG影響力人物:Rich的收藏風格

HOROGUIDES29 NOV. 2022
焦點話題

IG影響力人物:Rich的收藏風格

HOROGUIDES29 NOV. 2022

將腕錶戴上手,展示的不只是一枚配件,同時也展露了一部份的自我,包含個性、品味,以及你對腕錶收藏的看法見解。特別企劃【TOP INFLUENCERS, what's your collecting style? 】以錶會友,邀請43位鐘錶藏家分享他的收藏風格,以及收藏裡最具代表性的錶款。43位藏家的43種答案,都是收藏歷程的真實體會。

 

Rich/@watchbiao

我是台灣人,在美國長大,20年來一直是腕錶的愛好者。

 

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My collecting style leans towards independent watchmakers, as I believe they are making the best watches today. Indies can offer many things that the bigger brands do not, such as making most of the watch by hand, higher degree of hand finishing, more complexity in movement design and watch construction, original and unique designs, and openness to customization. Indies typically try to push the limit and try new things, and are less driven by profit and desire to grow the business. They are more like artists instead of businessmen, and it feels good to support an artist or underdog. 

 

我的腕錶收藏比較偏獨立製錶,因為我相信他們製作的是當今最好的腕錶。獨立製錶可以提供許多大型品牌所沒有的東西,例如大部分腕錶都由手工製作、更高程度的手工修飾、更複雜的機芯設計和腕錶結構、原創和獨特的設計以及對訂製的開放程度。獨立製錶品牌通常會嘗試突破極限並嘗試新事物,受到利潤和業務推展的影響程度較低,這讓他們更像是藝術家而非商人,而支持藝術家或是被低估的品牌讓人感覺很棒。

 

DE BETHUNE - IG影響力人物:Rich的收藏風格

De Bethune DB28 Kind of Blue "Milky Way" 鈦金屬/錶徑42.6mm/DB2115V4機芯

Denis Flageollet, Co-Founder of De Bethune, is a genius and one of the top watchmakers in the world. He not only is a master of traditional watchmaking skills and techniques, who can invent complex complications and perform beautiful finishing, but he also wants to innovate and create new designs. 

 

This DB28 represents some of the best things that De Bethune does. On the performance side, the watch has a custom titanium balance wheel that is low weight and aerodynamic, providing better inertia. The triple parachute titanium bridge with three jewels absorbs shocks. On the design side, De Bethune is known for being the best at mirror-polishing titanium and heating titanium by fire to make it turn blue. 

 

De Bethune的聯合創始人Denis Flageollet是一位天才,也是世界頂級的製錶師之一。他不但是傳統製錶技藝和技術的大師,能夠發明精密的複雜功能並進行精美的修飾,同時也進行創新和創造新的設計。

 

這款DB28呈現出De Bethune最經典的特色。在性能方面,這款腕錶採用訂製的鈦合金擺輪,重量輕盈且符合空氣動力學特性,提供更好的慣性。帶有三顆寶石的鈦金屬三重避震橋板也可吸收震動。在設計方面,De Bethune以擅長對鈦金屬進行鏡面拋光、燒藍處理而聞名。

 

DE BETHUNE - IG影響力人物:Rich的收藏風格

 

This "Kind of Blue" version is the next level where almost every part is mirror-polished, then each part is put over the flame to achieve a uniform shade of blue. It is a very labor-intensive process that no one else does. Additionally, this "Milky Way" limited edition has the image of the galaxy in gold applied onto the central bridge. The DB28 is thin, lightweight, and has unique mobile lugs that conforms to the shape of my wrist. The overall package is extremely comfortable to wear. For such a thin watch, it is impressive that there is so much depth, layers and shapes. 

 

這款「Kind of Blue」版本來到了另一個層次,幾乎每個零件都經過鏡面拋光,然後將每個零件放到火焰上加熱藉此形成一層均勻的藍色,這是一個需要非常多人力的工序,因此其他品牌不會這樣做。此外,這款「Milky Way」限量版在中央的金屬橋板上飾有銀河圖案,DB28纖薄、輕巧,獨特的浮動式錶耳能夠貼合我的手腕,上手非常舒適。對於如此纖薄的腕錶,其深度、豐富的層次和造型都令人印象深刻。

 

DE BETHUNE - IG影響力人物:Rich的收藏風格

 

I appreciate that the watch looks like it came from the future, but a lot of De Bethune watches are made by hand and fire using traditional techniques. The best watch made today should not look like a copycat of a 50 year old design. It should look like it represents our era, and look like it was impossible to make 50 years ago. I believe De Bethune represents this. 

 

我欣賞這只錶的原因,是因為它雖然看起來像是來自未來的作品,但很多De Bethune的腕錶都是以傳統工藝手工製作和燒藍。一支好的現代錶款不應該像在模仿50年前的設計,它的外觀應該要能呈現我們身處的時代,並且是50年前不可能出現的樣貌。我相信De Bethune就體現出了這一點。

 
DE BETHUNE - IG影響力人物:Rich的收藏風格
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