Luis25 FEB. 2020

IG名錶達人

懂錶的女人最美麗 ! 你必須follow的 @a.dose.of.time

Luis25 FEB. 2020
懂錶的女人最美麗 ! 你必須follow的 @a.dose.of.time

Luis25 FEB. 2020
IG名錶達人

懂錶的女人最美麗 ! 你必須follow的 @a.dose.of.time

Luis25 FEB. 2020

大家都說現在的年輕人不戴錶,或是只戴Apple Watch而不戴機械錶。但是,哈佛大學的正妹高材生 Jaclyn Li不但熱愛機械錶,她的收藏和品味更是令人驚艷!

 

IG帳號:@a.dose.of.time 

自我介紹:大家好!我是來自加拿大溫哥華的 Jaclyn,現在是美國哈佛大學四年級的學生。我對腕錶、尤其是古董錶充滿熱情;很興奮能和大家分享我的生活故事和腕錶收藏之路。

 

Hi everyone! My name is Jaclyn and I am from Vancouver, Canada. I am currently a senior college student studying at Harvard University with a passion for vintage timepieces and horology--excited to be sharing with you a few stories of my life and what got me interested in watch collecting!

 

懂錶的女人最美麗 ! 你必須follow的 @a.dose.of.time
@a.dose.of.time IG中可見的獨特品味 -PP Aquanaut Travel Time「百達翡麗先進研究」系列特別版時計 5650G

Q1: 妳是如何開始對手錶產生興趣的?

How did you get interested in watches?

 

我一直都對鐘錶、機芯和機械結構有興趣。我生長在一個收藏是生活重心的家庭;家父的收藏豐富,包括一次大戰的軍刀、Zippo 打火機和茅台酒等。祖父是一位大收藏家,藏品遍及自唐代以來的錢幣、字畫真跡和手稿。從小我就對老東西著迷,這和我喜歡收集手錶有直接的關係;收集手錶就好像在收集歷史上的時間點滴。

 

I always had an interest in horology, the mechanisms behind movements. I was raised in a family where collecting is a big part of our lives. My dad has a pretty extensive collection ranging from WWI army knives, Zippos, all the way to Mao-tai liquors. My grandpa is a big collector of coins, manuscripts and calligraphies dating all the way back to the Tang Dynasty. Growing up, I’ve just been intrigued by old things and I think there is a direct correlation with watches and why I enjoy collecting them. It is almost like collecting pieces of time from history.

 

懂錶的女人最美麗 ! 你必須follow的 @a.dose.of.time

 

我收藏中較老的一只錶:前Daytona時期、1957年的勞力士6234。

One of the older pieces in my collection, a Rolex 6234 Pre-Daytona from 1957.

 

 

Q2: 哪一則貼文最能表達妳的風格?

Which of your IG posts best represent your style?

 

我的風格多變,但舒適向來是很重要的。我最近迷上了卡地亞的老錶,覺得它們非常適合我的手腕和生活。因為我還是學生,不想戴太多珠寶;而腕錶就完美了。我最喜愛的錶徑是30-35mm,而在這個範圍,卡地亞真的是出類拔萃,非常優雅、經典且簡潔。

 

My style changes quite often but comfort is always very important. Recently, I’ve just been obsessed with vintage Cartier pieces. I think they fit both on my wrist and in my life perfectly. Because I am still going to school, I don’t like wearing too many jewelries so a watch on the wrist is perfect for me. I also have a relatively smaller wrist, and sometimes bigger watches look quite awkward on me. My comfort zone ranges from 30-35mm and that is the realm where vintage Cartier really claims the prize. They are always extremely elegant, timeless, yet simple.

 

懂錶的女人最美麗 ! 你必須follow的 @a.dose.of.time

 

1945年的卡地亞坦克 Obus Allongée,有著寶璣式的指針,和逆時針手上鍊機制。

A 1945 Cartier Tank Obus Allongée with breguet-styled hands and back-winding mechanism.

 

懂錶的女人最美麗 ! 你必須follow的 @a.dose.of.time

 

我的第一只卡地亞,也是我收藏中最愛的錶之一:1979年的路易卡地亞坦克,鉑金,勃艮地紅色的時標和紅寶石錶冠鑲飾。

 

My first Cartier and one of my favorite watches in my collection. A platinum tank louis dating to 1979 with burgundy numerals and ruby cabochon.

 

Q3: 妳覺得女性和男性的愛錶人有何不同之處?

Have you found any difference between female and male watch lovers?

 

有,也沒有。我認為,對錶的愛是很個人的事,這對所有人來說都是一樣的。就我的觀察而言,女性會將腕錶融入於日常風格之中,男性較多偏重錶的本身,而較少注意腕錶和整體的搭配。我也覺得很多人對女性有個巨大的刻板印象,以為愛錶的女性視腕錶為另一件珠寶。以我個人主觀來說,我收藏腕錶、大多是古董錶,因為它們不但符合我的風格,而且我本來就更著迷於時間的流動感。在我看來,腕錶和手環或戒指,是完全不一樣的東西。

 

Yes and no. I think the love for watches is subjective to each person, and therefore kind of the same for all. From what I have seen, female watch lovers try to incorporate their watches into daily styles more whereas male lovers pay more attention to the pieces themselves and less on the overall look. I also think there is a huge stereotype behind female collecting where people think that girls who like watches treat watches like another piece of jewelry. Subjectively speaking, I collect watches, mostly vintage, because they not only fit into my style of choice more, but because I am intrinsically more interested in that touch of time’s passing. I view watches as entirely different things to bracelets or rings.

 

懂錶的女人最美麗 ! 你必須follow的 @a.dose.of.time

@a.dose.of.time 的 F.P JOURNE Chronomètre Bleu,搭配不同顏色的錶帶,完美呈現獨特的品味。

Q4: 對你的工作或生活來說,手錶代表什麼?

What do watches mean to your work and life?

 

許多人視手錶為身分地位的表彰品。雖然我不同意這個說法,但我理解人們這麼說的原因。一個很大的刻板印象是,腕錶收藏一定要有財力的支持。這或許也是某種事實,但很多人太過注意價格,卻忽略了錶主是因為真心喜歡而購入佩戴的。對我來說,錶是完全的配件。我戴錶,因為我喜歡戴著錶的感覺;它讓我覺得更有型、更得體,而我很享受這樣的風格。若不戴錶,我會覺得少了個什麼東西。現在,戴上一只錶,已經跟每天早上刷牙一樣,成為我的每日常規之一。

 

Many people view watches as statement pieces. While I don’t agree with that saying, I can understand where people are coming from. There is this massive stereotype around how watch collecting has to be backup by means. While there are truths behind that, people tend to get caught up on the price tag of a watch and forget that people really only buy what they enjoy wearing. To me, a watch is the perfect accessory. I wear a watch because I like how I feel when wearing a watch. I enjoy the lifestyle, it makes me feel more well put-together. I feel almost incomplete without one, and putting on a watch has become as routine as brushing my teeth first thing in the morning.

 

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

A post shared by Jaclyn (@a.dose.of.time) on

 

這是我最早入手的一只錶之一,江詩丹頓與國際知名鐘錶網站Hodinkee合作推出的限量36枚精鋼款Historiques Cornes de vache 1955。許多人喜愛這只錶;也有許多人因為Hodinkee而不喜歡,但我完全不介意;雖然我覺得不限量更好,可以讓更多人入手。我認為這只錶是江詩丹頓計時腕錶的經典詮釋,它的面盤實在完美。

 

One of the first watches I acquired, a Vacheron Constantin Cornes de Vache collaborated with Hodinkee. Many people love this watch, and many people don’t because of the “Hodinkee” factor but it doesn’t matter to me. I would have much preferred if it wasn’t a LE so it would have been more accessible to people. I just think this is the perfect testament to historical VC chronographs and the dial on this is perfect.

 

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

A post shared by Jaclyn (@a.dose.of.time) on

 

1940年代早期的勞力士泡泡背,是另一只我最常戴的錶。因為它的尺寸適中,且面盤上的氧化斑點如同星空一般。

 

A bubbleback dating back to the early 1940’s. Another one of the watches I wear most often because of its size and how the dial has this perfect starry-night patina throughout.

 

Q5: 妳最喜愛的錶是哪一只?為什麼?

Which is your favorite watch? Why?

 

這個難選耶!真的要看我那段時間的感覺和風格而定。以目前來說,我最喜歡的是現在我手腕上的這只卡地亞1994年山度士–杜蒙90週年版。它不算是古董錶,但背後的故事很有吸引力。這只錶是卡地亞為慶祝世界上最早腕錶之一、山度士–杜蒙的90週年而製作的。錶殼是鉑金,限量90只。它有著精美細緻的「鮭魚色」面盤和藍色寶璣式指針,色澤會隨著光線而變化。很漂亮的一只錶,且非常合我的手腕。

 

A hard one! Again, it really depends on how I am feeling or how my style has been refining recently. Right now, my favorite watch is the one that is on my wrist—A Cartier Santos Dumont 90th anniversary edition from 1994. It isn’t vintage per se but the story behind it is fascinating. Cartier made this watch to celebrate the 90th anniversary of the Santos Dumont, one of the world’s first wrist-watches ever. This watch is made of platinum, and limited to 90 pieces. It comes with this beautiful, subtle salmon dial with blue breguet hands that change color depending on how the light hits them. It is gorgeous and fits my wrist so well.

 

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

A post shared by Jaclyn (@a.dose.of.time) on

 

Q6: 身為一位女性的愛錶人,妳對鐘錶品牌和鐘錶業界,有什麼話想說呢?

As a female watch lover, do you want to say something to the brands and the watch industry?

 

有越來越多女性的愛錶人展現自我風格,並向錶界人士分享她們的收藏,我認為是一件很棒的事。正因為鐘錶界主要是個男士俱樂部,女士的聲音更應該被更多的聽見。在一些小的獨立製錶品牌裡,有許多女性的製錶師,她們正逐漸地在鐘錶界打開一番新氣象,這是我非常樂見的。我真的很感謝 HOROGUIDES提供這個平台,也謝謝Luis透過「懂錶的女人」單元和大家分享女性鐘錶收藏家的故事。我們需要更多這樣的內容!

 

I think it’s a great thing that more female lovers are expressing their personal styles and sharing their collections with people in the industry. Women need more representation here as the watch industry is mainly a guy’s club. I love the fact that many watch makers from smaller independent brands are women and that they are slowly disrupting the industry, in a good way of course. Really appreciate Horoguides for providing this platform and huge shout out to Luis for sharing stories about female collectors out here. We need more of this!!

 

懂錶的女人最美麗 ! 你必須follow的 @a.dose.of.time
@a.dose.of.time 的收藏ROLEX 6234

懂錶的女人最美麗 ! 你必須follow的 @a.dose.of.time

@a.dose.of.time 的收藏 Cartier Crash

Q7:除了手錶以外,有其他的興趣嗎?

Do you have other hobbies besides watches?

 

我喜歡攝影和旅遊,這兩者原本就是「在一起」的。我也喜歡運動鞋,從11 歲起,我就一直是個運動鞋狂。我熱愛和我最好的朋友們一起旅行,尋找私房景點;也會到世界各地的鄉村地區,例如中世紀小鎮或是冰島,只要是接近大自然都好。

 

I enjoy photography, travelling (I think those go hand-in-hand), and also sneakers. I am a really big sneakerhead and have been since the age of 11. I LOVE traveling with my best friends where we seek out hidden-gem spots but also really like doing solo trips to rural areas of the world, such as small medieval towns or the places like Iceland, really anywhere with nature.

 

懂錶的女人最美麗 ! 你必須follow的 @a.dose.of.time
喜愛攝影與旅遊的@a.dose.of.time 造訪過許多美麗景點。
懂錶的女人最美麗 ! 你必須follow的 @a.dose.of.time
@a.dose.of.time 喜愛親近大自然,尤其常在世界各地的鄉村留下足跡。
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