Eric Hsiao1 JUN. 2019
Eric Hsiao1 JUN. 2019
無論是個人興趣，還是為了保值取向，當你回頭看你錶盒裡的收藏，你收藏的錶款都是什麼風格與類型？HOROGUIDES這次邀請到的鐘錶達人@vernitez30，他收藏的錶款從超熱門的勞力士、PP萬年曆計時碼錶、限量版AP RO，又或者是獨立製錶的F.P.Journe、Kari Voutilainen Vingt8，款款收藏都是令人稱羨的藏家珍藏款式。
但當我們問起若只留下一只錶，他的選擇是父親贈送的Rolex Oyster Perpetual Ref.1003。因為"大多數手錶都告訴我們時間；而這只錶講的是人生故事"，今天就讓@vernitez30來跟我們分享他的收藏之路！
自我介紹: 「Dedicated to the average wristgame. ̷N̷o̷ ̷p̷e̷r̷p̷s̷ , N̷o̷ ̷t̷o̷u̷r̷b̷s̷ , No repeaters.... #vernitez30 」
When did you open your IG account? and why?
probably about 4 years ago in 2015. It started out as a personal catalogue for watches and remained a private account for about a year or so. As Instagram gradually gained traction amongst watch enthusiasts, I thought it might be interesting to get to know other like-minded hobbyists. That’s when I removed all identity related content and turned it into a public account.
What message would you want to convey through your post?
There has never been a structured effort in content creation. But I try my best to restrict only to watch-related content so it remains true to theme. If anything, my account is just a casual diary of what I wear, what are the people around me wearing, and what I see at watch events.
Please choose one post that can represent your style.
I like dressier watches but I’m more often than not casually attired.
Which post(s) impressed you the most or which post has the most engagement rate? Is there any story behind?
我不認為自己的貼文會讓我印象深刻，因為我沒有致力於拍好照片，也沒刻意寫出有深度的文章，但如果我必須選擇一個有故事的貼文，那就是我終於收藏了Kari Voutilainen Vingt8的那天。由於這款錶的錶盤是訂製的，因此從無到有都是在我Instagram裡與其他好友的幫助下共同完成的，而且美好的結果超乎我的預期，我非常感謝所有以各種方式提供我幫助的人，特別是我的好朋友@singaporewatchclub，他在設計部分扮演重要的角色。我想這次的經驗讓我的收藏之路更加的有意義，同時見證了我是腕錶社群裡面的一員。
I don’t think I can ever be impressed with my own posts. I neither take good photos nor make an effort to compose nice captions. But if I have to pick a post with a story behind, this would be it: The day when I finally collected my Kari Voutilainen Vingt8. The dial was customized from scratch and I had enlisted the help of many good friends in and out of Instagram especially. The result turned out better than expected and I am very thankful to everyone who helped in one way or another especially my good friend @singaporewatchclub who played a major role in the design. I think this is a testimony to watch collecting being more meaningful when you are part of a like-minded community.
What are your criteria in collecting watch?
在設計方面，我偏愛具有特色的手錶，但我更喜歡經典款的小改款，這會讓我感到特別興奮。例如，我非常喜愛我的Audemars PiguetRoyal Oak Ref：15300ST，這是為一個日本零售錶店所推出的週年紀念特別版，採用拋光鉑金錶圈來代替原先的拋光不鏽鋼錶圈。而另一只仍在生產的Rolex Day-Date，它採用青金石鑲鑽的錶盤，我認為也是一個相當特殊的版本。
No strict criteria but I am very mindful of wearability. While design is important, it becomes irrelevant when you can’t carry the watch.
In terms of design, I gravitate towards iconic watches and I am particularly excited when it has a small differentiating twist from the regular production reference. For example, I am very much in love with my Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Ref: 15300ST that was made for the anniversary of a Japanese retailer and comes in a polished platinum bezel in-place of the regular brushed steel bezel. My Rolex Day-Date in a factory Lapis Lazuli diamond dial while being a current production model is also in my opinion a rather special variant.
Then there are the “watches which everyone likes”. In current context, this probably refers to the steel sports watches from the big houses like Rolex and Patek. Nice pieces, well-made, can’t go wrong and you probably wear them in the comfort that they retain their values well. It is in my opinion hard to ignore these pieces if fortunate enough to have access to them.
Which watch brand is your favourite?
I do not have a favorite brand. I think most brands have their own icons and outstanding pieces, and I am not specifically loyal to one.
Which is your favourite watch? Why?
我最喜歡 F.P. Journe MOP錶盤的Chronomètre à Résonance。在我看來，Chronomètre à Résonance是FPJ的經典代表作，而這個系列中的所有款式都很漂亮。這款特別的單品採用紫色MOP珍珠母貝錶盤製作而成，我認為他生產的數量並不多。這款錶是幾年之前，我從一位經驗豐富的海外收藏家手中買下來的，而在收購的過程中也結下了友誼，至今我們仍然保持聯繫。因此只要我向他詢問，他總會向我提供非常實用的腕錶建議。
The FP Journe Chronomtre a Resonance in a MOP dial. In my mind, the Resonance is an icon of FPJ and all the variants that were ever produced are beautiful. This particular piece is made a little special with a purplish MOP dial; and I do not imagine many of these were made. I acquired it from a seasoned collector overseas some years back, and forged a friendship in the process. We are still in touch and he offers very sound advice on watches whenever I ask.
Which watch(es) do you usually wear?
I consciously try to rotate my watches so that they get as balanced wrist-time as possible. In deciding what to wear, I try to match the wardrobe of the day, at least in terms of coordinating the colors. Rotating watches helps me to understand if I still appreciate each piece as I did before.
Would you please share your first watch? Do you still have it?
我的第一只手錶是我父親贈送的不鏽鋼製Rolex Oyster Perpetual Ref 1003。它陪伴我的學校時光、服兵役，並擁有許多回憶。這款錶的型號，甚至還是我的錶迷朋友告訴我的，但這款錶始終是我最重要的手錶。
My first watch is a steel Rolex Oyster Perpetual Ref 1003 gifted by dad. It has seen me through school and national service and holds many memories. I did not even know its reference until advised by some watch savvy friends; but it will always remain the most important watch.
Please share the craziest watch that you have.
我擁有最瘋狂的錶是F.P. Journe Tourbillon Souverain, Coeur de Rubis， 我一直都超愛F.P Journe陀飛輪，但拖延了很長的時間，一直都沒有收藏。於是當品牌宣布即將停產這個款式的時候，立馬我就決定購買。
I think its the FP Journe Tourbillon Souverain, Coeur de Rubis. Always love the FP Journe tourbillon but procrastinated for a long time. When the manufacture announced that it would discontinue the reference, I decided I had to pull the trigger when the opportunity surfaced to acquire possibly its last iteration.
Which watch would you want to purchase next? Why?
There are a few watches that are at the back of my mind but I do not actively pursue them, especially when they are not of current production. I think such acquisitions have to be opportunistic. I have learnt to wait for the watch to come to me rather than chase after it. I don’t really know what’s next myself, but you can be sure I will be posting it on my IG once I get hold of it.
Do you have a dream watch?
我不太會花時間思考那些無法實現的事情。我覺得做夢沒有建設性。如果我真的必須在我的願望清單中選擇一款手錶，那它就是2015年推出的朗格A. Lange & Söhne 1815 Tourbillon Handwerkskunst陀飛輪，這款是用來紀念Ferdinand Adolph Lange誕辰200週年，我非常希望有天能夠夢想成真。
I tend not to spend time thinking of things that are unattainable. I find dreaming unconstructive. But if I really have to pin-point on one watch which has been on my wishlist for a long time, it has to be the A Lange & Sohne 1815 Tourbillon Handwerkunst, launched in 2015 in tribute of Ferdinand Adolph Lange’s 200th birthday. I remain hopeful to turn this into reality.
Do you have other hobby than watches?
Yes! I am an aspiring golfer. Too bad the two hobbies do not go together. I used to wear a watch when I golf, I have learnt my lesson.
If you only get to keep ONE watch in your collection, which one would you keep? Why?
我會保留我父親贈送的Rolex Oyster Perpetual Ref.1003。以前我父親並沒有很多手錶，而這只錶是他當時珍貴的財產。我認為手錶如果沒有情感意義的賦予，那手錶只是物質層面的財富，而且往往是短暫的，因為我們的品味和喜好會隨著時間而變化。
It will have to be the Rolex ref 1003 gifted by my dad. He did not have many watches back then and it was his prized possession. Without the emotional significance, watches are just material possessions; and often transient as our tastes and preferences change with time.
Most watches tell time; this one tells a story.