17 JUN. 2022

IG影響力人物:@horomariobro 的傳承錶款

17 JUN. 2022
ROMAIN GAUTHIER - IG影響力人物:@horomariobro 的傳承錶款

如果今天你只能選擇留下一款錶、而且是準備傳承給下一代的錶款,你會選擇哪一只呢?HOROGUIDES Magazine Vol.1的【TOP INFLUENCERS, 100 ICONS!】特別企劃,邀請大家認識一群熱愛鐘錶的藏家朋友,由這群真正閱錶無數的達人們介紹私人收藏裡想要傳承給下一代的錶款。



Sharing observations and thoughts of my watches thru an iPhone and a loupe.





First of all, I am very excited to learn about the upcoming launch of HOROGUIDES Magazine, because I have been a fan of HOROGUIDES for several years. I have always enjoyed its great contents from interviews of collectors and brands. I think of HOROGUIDES as the Hodinkee for the Chinese-speaking watch community. I am especially honored for the opportunity to take part of the first issue of HOROGUIDES Magazine.


首先,作為HOROGUIDES 的多年粉絲,很高興得知 HOROGUIDES 雜誌即將創刊。 我一直很喜歡這些報導藏家和品牌的精彩內容。我覺得 HOROGUIDES 是華文鐘錶媒體的 HODINKEE。能夠參與 HOROGUIDES 雜誌的創刊號也感到特別榮幸。



If I were to pick one watch from my collection to pass down to the next generation, it’d be the Romain Gauthier Logical One. You may ask why? It is definitely not an easy task to choose only a single watch from my collection to pass down. After some thoughts, it boils down to my motivations to collect watches. Basically, there are 3 main criteria I look for when I decide on a watch, (1) Unique design (2) Craftsmanship, (3) Interesting complication. Watches in my collection all have at least one of these 3 criteria. As for the Logical One, it satisfies all 3 criteria and it’s not an easy feat!


如果我要從收藏中挑選一款腕錶傳承下一代,那肯定是 Romain Gauthier Logical One 你可能會問為什麼? 畢竟要我從收藏的錶款中只挑選一只來傳承絕對不容易。 經過一番思考,這些可以歸納出我收藏腕錶的動機。基本上,我購買手錶有3個主要的判斷標準:(1)獨特的設計(2)工藝,(3)有趣的複雜性。 我入手的錶款至少都符合這3個標準中的其中一項。至於Logical One則是完全滿足了3個標準,相當難得!


ROMAIN GAUTHIER - IG影響力人物:@horomariobro 的傳承錶款

Romain Gauthier Logical One 黃金/錶徑43mm/Logical One機芯/芝麻鍊裝置/訂製款

In terms of (1) Unique design, the Logical one has an off-center dial with balance wheel on half of the dial. In addition, it has the patented fusee-and-chain complication on the other half of the dial. This design is truly one of a kind. One can instantly recognize it’s a Logical One without even seeing the brand or model name.


1)獨特的設計,Logical 採偏心式錶盤設計,擺輪位於錶盤的一半。 此外,面盤的另一側則是專利的芝麻鍊複雜功能。這是相當獨特的設計。即使不看品牌或款式名稱也可以馬上就辨識出它是Logical One腕錶。


ROMAIN GAUTHIER - IG影響力人物:@horomariobro 的傳承錶款


In terms of (2) Craftsmanship, the Logical One is well recognized as one of the watches with best finishing in the industry. It’s evidenced by the incredibly wide and rounded anglage on the bridges as well as the berçage on the fusee-and-chain and the balance bridge bars. This level of finishing takes hundreds of hours to complete by a skilled artisan with years of experiences.


2)在工藝方面,Logical One是錶界公認,修飾工藝水準最優秀的腕錶之一。 從橋板略帶弧度的寬倒角,還有芝麻鍊和擺輪橋板的寶石軸承圓孔就可以看出。這需要經驗豐富的熟練工匠耗費數百小時,才能完成這種高水準的精緻修飾工藝。


ROMAIN GAUTHIER - IG影響力人物:@horomariobro 的傳承錶款


As for (3) interesting complication, Romain Gauthier re-invented a classic fusee-and-chain complication by using an innovative snail cam. This invention not only reduces the height of the complication, it’s also less prone to issues and improves serviceability. This invention alone has several patents such as snail cam, ruby-link chain, push-button winding system..etc.


至於 (3) 有趣的複雜功能,Romain Gauthier 採用創新的蝸形凸輪設計來重新詮釋經典的芝麻鍊複雜功能。這樣的設計不僅降低了芝麻鍊裝置的高度,同時更不易故障,還有維修的便利性。光是這個裝置就涵括了包括蝸形凸輪、紅寶石芝麻鍊、按鈕上鍊系統等多項專利。


ROMAIN GAUTHIER - IG影響力人物:@horomariobro 的傳承錶款


Last but not the least, Customer Service is also an important factor for passing down to the next generation because if the watch cannot be serviced down the road, it’s of no good. My interactions with Romain Gauthier have been very positive including servicing. I get a sense from Romain that he believes in customer service as a key for the brand’s continued success. Romain Gauthier Logical One exemplifies modern interpretation of traditional and artisanal watchmaking. It is undoubtedly my choice among my collection!


最後但也非常重要的一點是,售後服務也是將腕錶傳承給下一代的重要因素,因為如果腕錶不能隨時送去維修,再厲害也沒用。 我與 Romain Gauthier 間的互動,包括售後服務的溝通都非常好。我也從 Romain 那裡了解到,他相信售後服務是品牌持續發展的關鍵。Romain GauthierLogical One 體現了傳統和手工製錶的現代詮釋。無庸置疑成為我的選擇!


ROMAIN GAUTHIER - IG影響力人物:@horomariobro 的傳承錶款
精彩完整內容,敬請閱覽HOROGUIDES Vol.1

➤ HOROGUIDES五週年,為什麼我們從數位媒體、選擇重拾紙本雜誌?總編輯Eric告訴你